How to Lay Roof Shingles On A Shed

Laying out roof shingles on a shed is an important part of enhancing your backyard oasis with a new or updated shed. A shingled shed roof is an excellent way to keep water and weather elements out of your structure while matching nicely with the exterior décor. Roof replacement is not merely a matter of putting on new roofing shingles. Do it once and do it right, whether it is repairing a few trouble parts or from scratch. In this guide, you will learn how to install, replace, or re-shingle your roof on the shed like a professional. 

Is Your Shed Roof Time to be Replaced?

Before you begin pounding on new shingles on your shed or removing the old ones, step back. You must determine whether your roof can be salvaged or if it is time to do a full remodeling. Most sheds last 15-25 years, although this is dependent on a couple of factors. When you reside in a place where the winters are difficult or the summers are hot, your roof suffers.

Signs Your Shed Roof May Need Replacing: 

• Extensive Cracks, Curls or Missed Shingles
• Roof leaks or water stains inside your shed.
• Significant granule loss on shingles
• Roof decking or underlayment is damaged or rotten
• Roof is at or near its average lifespan (15-25 years)

If your shed roof is approaching or beyond its expected useful life, or if major wear is evident on the existing roofing system, then re-roofing or complete roof replacement should be considered to restore it and provide maximum protection for many more years.

How to Shingle Your Shed Roof Like a Pro

Getting a new roof on your shed doesn’t have to break the bank or your back. With some patience and the right approach, you can tackle this weekend project and end up with a roof that looks professional and keeps everything dry for years.

Step 1: Get Your Roof Ready

You must have a firm base to work on before you even consider touching a shingle.

Go around your shed and actually examine the roof deck. Apply pressure to various areas to detect soft or spongy spots; they are red flags that yell, Fix me first! Any loose, warped, or rotted boards must be removed and replaced. There is no way to construct a good roof over a bad foundation, period.

Remove any debris, old nails, or rough spots. When you are finished, you should have a roof deck as smooth and solid as a kitchen counter. In case you are operating on old shingles. It is decision time: take them off, or you will regret it later when your new roof begins to sag.

Step 2: Lay the Foundation Right

This is step that distinguishes the weekend warriors and the guys that wind up with leaky roofs.

Unroll your underlayment (that is the waterproofing layer) beginning with the bottom edge. It is as though you are wrapping a present, you want to cover it all with no holes. The row must overlap with the lower one at least 3 inches. Do not be cheap here and attempt to stretch it.

Then there is the drip edge and this small metal scrap is your roofs best friend. It runs along the edges and essentially tells water, “this way out” rather than letting it creep under your shingles. Fasten it with nails every 8-10 inches and have the corners fit tightly.

Step 3: Start with the Starter Strip

This is where the majority of people go wrong, and you will not.

Use a standard shingle and turn it upside down; cut off the tabs. The remainder is your starter strip, a straight piece that will have something to cling to your first row of actual shingles.

Hammer this strip to the lower side of your roof and have it overhang the drip edge by a half an inch or so. This is not simply a decoration, but that prevents water from running back under your roof.

Step 4: Lay Your First Real Row

Here we are making progress.

Begin at one side and move along. Your first shingle must overlap that starter strip and extend over the edge by the same half-inch. Put four nails in each shingle. Do not nail too high and you will strike the adhesive strip that connects the shingles.

Keep your shingles tight up to one another, and yet without forcing. They must be able to merge. At the end of the row, you can measure and cut your last shingle.

Step 5: Master the Stagger Pattern

It is here that your roof becomes pro-level.

With your second row, take 6 inches off the first shingle before you nail it in place. This forms the offset pattern, which prevents water from getting a direct route to your roof. Cut 6 inches off the starter shingle at the next row and every row thereafter.

The bottom of every new shingle must match the top of the shingle tabs underneath it. Continue this pattern to the top of your roof, and you will have joints that never fit perfectly as you like.

Step 6: Handle the Peak Like a Pro

At the top, you should have ridge caps to cap the two sides where they meet.

Ridge caps are supplied ready-made made but can be made up yourself by simply cutting the common shingle in half to thirds. Begin at one end of the ridge, and lay in toward the other end, overlapping each cap by some 5 inches. The final cap is given a dab of roofing cement beneath it rather than exposed nails.

Step 7: Proofread and clean up

Take a step back and see what you have created. 

Have all your shingles lying down, all your nails lying flat (not sticking up in the air, or driven too far into the wood), and your rows straight and even.

Look around and see the edges; they all should overhang in the same direction. If there are any loose areas or gaps that you find, you ought to repair them immediately. 

What You’ll Need to Get Started

Essential Materials:

• Asphalt shingles (buy 10% extra for mistakes and future repairs)
• Roofing underlayment (felt or synthetic)
• Drip edge flashing
• Roofing nails (1¼ inch for most sheds)
• Ridge cap shingles

Tools You Can’t Do Without:

• Hammer or nail gun
• Sharp utility knife (buy extra blades)
• Tape measure
• Chalk line (trust me on this one)
• Sturdy ladder
• Work gloves

Pro Tips That Actually Matter

Safety first: Don’t think of skipping safety gear. Make sure you use a stable ladder, wear shoes with a good grip and never work on a wet or windy day.

Measure twice, cut once: Have a stack of scraps on hand–they are ideal to fill in odd places and to make ridge caps.

Look at the weather: You need two dry days, one to work and one to allow the shingles to seal. It is better on hot days since the adhesive strips work quickly.

Be patient with alignment: Use that chalk line to keep your rows straight. A bent row at the beginning will dog you to the end.

Do not over-nail: Four nails to a shingle are enough. Additional nails only provide additional opportunities for leakage.

You should be able to complete the entire job in a weekend, provided you work diligently and avoid rushing. By the time you are finished, you will have a roof that appears as though you have paid a contractor but at a fraction of the cost. And you will be able to be sure that every nail was hammered in the right way and every shingle was put in the right place, which you cannot always be sure of when you employ somebody.

Conclusion

Putting shingles on a shed is a manageable DIY task that greatly improves the appearance and durability of your backyard oasis. If you plan on applying asphalt shingles, properly preparing the roof surface with the correct underlayment and then following a step-by-step process of preparing your work surface will help to weatherproof your shed, giving it longevity. Regular checks and maintenance will keep your shed roof in top shape for years to come.

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